Hogget rump with winter vegetables

Those in-the-know value the flavour of hogget over lamb and Matt Tebbutt shares his superb seasonal recipe for this choice cut
By Matt Tebbutt
Hogget rump with winter vegetables
  • Rating:
  • Serves: 2
  • Cook Time:
  • Prep Time: 20 minutes plus 15 mins resting
  • Effort: easy

Ingredients

For the Gascony butter

  • 60 ml rendered pork fat, duck fat or olive oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley

For the shallots and gravy

  • 2 tbsp butter
  • 150 g shallots, peeled
  • 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp brown sugar
  • 300 ml red wine
  • 100 ml lamb stock

For the winter vegetables

  • 2 salsify, peeled and diced
  • 4 baby turnips, peeled and diced
  • 1 carrot, diced
  • 100 g kale, sliced

For the hogget

  • about 450 g hogget lamb rumps, (see Cook's note)

Tips and Suggestions

Cook's note hogget is the name given to lamb that is over a year old, but before it turns to mutton in its third year. It has more flavour than lamb and can be cooked in the same way. Many good butchers and online suppliers sell hogget. Matt's preferred choice is hogget from Herdwick sheep, but there are many good breeds to try.

Method

1. For the Gascony butter: mix together all the ingredients and set aside.

2. For the shallots and gravy: melt half the butter in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the whole shallots and fry for about 15 minutes, or until softened and golden.

3. Pour in the red wine vinegar and boil for 1-2 minutes to reduce in volume by about half, then stir in the sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved then boil for about a minute until the shallots are coated in a light caramel. Remove from the pan and keep warm.

4. Pour the red wine into the pan and boil over a high heat for about 5 minutes, or until reduced in volume by three-quarters. Pour in the lamb stock and boil for a further 5 minutes, to reduce to a pouring sauce consistency. Whisk in the remaining butter and keep warm over a very low heat.

5. For the winter vegetables: while the sauce is reducing, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add all the vegetables, apart from the kale, and boil for 6-7 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and set aside. Repeat with the kale, boiling for 2 minutes, then drain.

6. For the hogget: preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Preheat an ovenproof frying pan over a medium-high heat.

7. Season the lamb all over with salt and black pepper and place in the hot pan. Leave undisturbed for 2-3 minutes until a deep brown crust has formed then turn and repeat on all sides. Transfer to the oven for about 10 minutes for medium-rare, or until cooked to your liking. Rest in a warm place for at least 15 minutes.

8. While the lamb is resting, finish the winter vegetables. Melt the Gascony butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat and add all of the vegetables apart from the kale. Fry gently for about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are golden-brown in places. Add the kale for the last 2 minutes of cooking.

9. To serve, carve the hogget into slices and arrange on top of the vegetables with the shallots. Pour a little of the gravy into the hogget pan and place over a medium heat. Use a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan and mix into the gravy, then pour this back into the remaining gravy. Serve with the hogget.

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