Loin of venison with ceps and fried pastry cream

Don't be put off by the long method - this delicious recipe is worth the effort.
By Giorgio Locatelli
Loin of venison with ceps and fried pastry cream
  • Rating:
  • Serves: 4
  • Cook Time: 20 minutes
  • Prep Time: 30 minutes plus several days marinating time
  • Effort: medium


  • 800 g lean loin of venison steaks
  • 2 tbsp vegetable or sunflower oil
  • 200 g butter
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 300 g fresh cep mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
  • freshly ground salt and black pepper
  • 1/2 wine glassdry white wine
  • 1 tbsp chopped parsley

For the marinade

  • 1 litres red wine
  • 1 white onion, roughly chopped
  • 1 carrot, roughly chopped
  • 1 stick celery
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 sprig of rosemary
  • 4 juniper berries
  • 2 black peppercorns
  • 2 cloves garlic

For the crema fritta

  • 5 egg yolks
  • 50 g sugar
  • 90 g flour
  • 10 g cornflour
  • 500 ml milk
  • 3 tbsp dried breadcrumbs


1. Put the venison into a container with all the marinade ingredients and leave to marinade for a couple of days in the fridge. (If you like the flavour of juniper and want to intensify it, crush two of the berries first but, remember, it has a very strong taste).

2. A couple of hours before you start the recipe, take the venison out of the fridge and pat dry with kitchen towel or wrap in a cloth.

3. Preheat the oven to 250°C/gas mark 9.

4. To make the crema, in a bowl mix the egg yolks with the sugar, flour and cornflour. Bring the milk to the boil, then take off the heat immediately and beat into the egg mixture. Pour into a clean pan and cook for about 5 minutes, until the custard becomes very thick. Pour it into a tray, to come to a depth of about 1cm, and leave to cool completely. When cold and set, cut into whatever shapes you like and dust in the breadcrumbs.

5. Heat an ovenproof frying pan and add the vegetable or sunflower oil. Add the meat and cook for about 5 minutes on each side, then transfer to the oven for about 7 minutes (the meat will still be pink inside if you prefer it more well done, leave it in the oven a few minutes longer). Take out of the oven and leave to rest for 5 minutes.

6. Meanwhile heat half the butter and garlic in a saucepan. Then add the mushrooms and sauté until soft. Add the white wine and cook until it evaporates. Season, add the parsley and set aside.

7. Heat the rest of the butter in a small frying pan. Cook the pastry cream shapes until golden on both sides. The butter needs to be hot so the crema fritta turns golden quickly, but be careful not to burn the butter otherwise the pastry cream will start to melt.

8. Heat the red wine sauce in a separate pan.

9. Put the venison on a chopping board and slice it as thickly as you like. Arrange some mushrooms on each of the 4 warmed plates, with the slices of meat on top and the crema fritta on the side. Pour the sauce around.

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